Rolling Bar Cart with Removable Tray

Highly galvanized by Pottery Barn's Chesapeake Bar Cart, sold out for a whopping $350 a cart, this bar cart, AKA beverage cart, party cart, or may be ornamental plant cart, is made entirely of 1x3 boards (well, except for the wood wheels) and price me underneath $20 to make in lumber.  


Featuring a high tray that is fully removable, and bottom shelf with slatted style for straightforward water drainage, curved handles for straightforward moving, and two massive picket front wheels, moving your party outdoors - or indoors come unplanned weather changes, is as simple as it's trendy.

The Dimension

Shopping List: 

9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
4 - 1/2" diameter bolts, 2 1/2" long with bolts
6 - 1/2" washers to fit bolts
2 - handles
2 - 6" diameter wood rounds

1 1/4 inch screws

2 inch finish nails

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

primer

wood conditioner

paint

paint brush

Tools: 

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

jigsaw

nailer

sander

level

countersink drill bit

Cut List: 

2 - 1x3 @ 41 1/2" (Side Aprons)
4 - 1x3 @ 32" (Legs)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" (End Aprons)
2 - 1x3 @ 32" (Optional Side Supports)

Trays
4 - 1x3 @ 33 1/4" (Sides)
10 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (Bottom Slats)
10 - 1x3 @ 14 1/4" (Top Slats)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" (Bottom Ends)
2 - 1x3 @ 15 3/4" (Top Ends)

Please browse through the complete set up and every one comments before beginning this project. It is additionally advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to create safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, freed from imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for sq. after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained comes, as dried glue can not take stain. Be safe, celebrate, and ask for help if you wish it. Good luck!

Build the edges. Start by drawing a handle pattern on the aspect aprons. The handle at most can be 6" long, as the handle overhangs the rear leg vi". Clamp each side aprons along and sand till the two match perfectly.

You will conjointly taper the rear leg with a jigsaw as shown above (I did not, but would be cute).

Then attach the legs to the side apron, using one one/4" pocket hole screws and drilling holes with the Kreg Jig, set for three/four" stock.  Again, the handle overhangs the back leg by half-dozen".  Use glue and adjust for the square.  

You may would like to build two sides.  Take care to stay the pocket holes to the inside to conceal

Once your two sides are complete, attach the end aprons as shown in the diagram. Use glue, adjust for square.

After I designed my bar cart, I thought that a little further support and additionally, a rail for possibly using smaller trays (or perhaps a drop in ice bucket) would be sensible. So this step extremely is optional, however recommended. Add the facet aprons supports as shown higher than.

Now the trays. You'll build the trays with pocket holes, however it's really overkill. I used a pair of" end nails and wood glue, two nails per slat, with slats spaced three/four" apart.

The top tray desires to be 1/4" narrower than the underside so you'll be able to simply remove it while not scratching the finish. This is noted on top of and shown in the cut list.

Finish the ends of the two trays as shown above.

Now add the trays to the frame. The prime is as straightforward as just resting in place. For the underside, measure up half-dozen" and screw in place. I used one 1/4" screws and glue from the insides, 2 per leg, and it's plenty sturdy to carry my preschooler.

Drill holes in the center of your wood rounds with a 1/a pair of" drill bit. Mark the opening placement on the leg, and drill holes in the legs. Test the wheels with bolts, and when satisified, take away the wheels and trim legs (see next step).

When you set your wheels on permanently, you will wish to use 3 washers - one on the bolts side, one on the nut facet, and one between the wheel and also the leg to guard your finish. Bolt facet out, nuts on the within.

And a diagram for how the finished leg should look.

Preparation Instructions: 

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is totally dry, sand the project within the direction of the wood grain with one hundred twenty grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Take away all sanding residue on work surfaces in addition. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always suggested to use a test coat on a hidden space or scrap piece to make sure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

That's all!!. Hope everyone can have their own cart now!!!

For more information of other woodworking projects and plans visit this site Woodworking4home.com 

Farmhouse Bedside Table

A bedside table to match our Farmhouse Beds. Features one large bottom shelf and one large drawer.

Shopping List: 

1 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1/4″ plywood scrap, at least 24″ x 8″ (minimum, ideally 26″ x 8 1/2″)
2 1/2″ Screws or Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Finish nails or Screws
Wood Glue, wood filler and finishing supplies
2 Knobs

Tools: 

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

circular saw

sander

level

countersink drill bit

Cut List: 

2 – 1×12 @ 8 3/4″ (Sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim – needs to be width of your 1x12s)
4 – 2×2 @ 26 1/4″ (Legs)
2 – 2×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Stretchers, same width as your 1x12s)
6 – 2×2 @ 23″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood or paneling or other sheet goods @ 26″ x 8 1/2″ (back, optional)
3 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Top Supports)
3 – 1×6 @ 28″ (Top)
2 – 1×6 @ 22 3/4″ (Front and Back of Drawer)
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/2″ (Width of 1×12 – Sides of Drawers)
1 – 1×12 @ 21 1/4″ (Bottom of drawer)
1 – 1×12 @ 26″ (Bottom Shelf)
2 – 1×2 @ 23″ (Bottom Shelf Trim)

Sides

Build the sides by screwing or nailing from the insides into the back sides of the 1×2 trim, as shown above. Remember that the 1x2s are on the outside, so hide your fasteners on the back side. Use glue. Make sure trim is flush on top and ends with the 1×12. You will need to build two of these.

Legs

Next add the legs to the project as shown above. Predrill holes and use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Finish with the bottom stretcher. You will need to do this on both sides.

Front/Back Trim

Join the two side pieces with the front and back trim as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Back

This could even be a stiff cardboard or hardboard if that’s what you have on hand. Try asking at your hardware store for a scrap piece of plywood or a damaged sheet to save extra money. Tack on with either 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws and glue.

Top Supports

Attach the top supports as shown above with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Top

The top needs to overhang the base by 1″ on all sides. If you have a pocket hole system, build your top, then screw the base to the top through the supports. Otherwise, screw the supports to the top, starting with the middle top board, and minimizing gaps between the boards as you screw the outer boards to the supports.

Drawer

Build your drawer as shown above. Use screws and glue. The bottom is inset, with all sides screwed into the bottom. The front is merely false cuts made with a circular saw with the saw blade set at 1/8″.

Drawer Slides

What I would start with is screwing the drawer slides in place, flush with the bottom of the sides. Then fit the drawer in and unscrew the drawer slide and adjust until the gap around the top and sides is even and the drawer slides in and out nicely.

Front Trim

Attach the front trim to the legs as shown above, leaving an even gap on the underside of the drawer.

Bottom Shelf

You can lay the bottom shelf on the side stretchers, or you can screw to the legs as shown above.

Preparation Instructions: 

For a stained finish, be very careful to not let glue dry on any exposed seams or areas. Sand and stain, followed with wood filler that matches the stain, followed with a light sanding, a second coat of stain, and a clear top coat.

That's all!!. Hope everyone can have their own bedside table now!!!

For more information of other woodworking projects and plans visit this site Woodworking4home.com 

Aquarium Stand Plans-Custom Stand For a 75 Gallon Fish Aquarium

After talking concerning it for years, we tend to finally set to embark on a brand new hobby of fishkeeping.Myself being the kind who is incapable of doing abundant on a little scale, I urged we have a tendency to start with a 75 gallon aquarium. We went around to a few fish stores checking prices on a tank and stand. I suffered a bit of sticker shock at the prices for a cabinet stand. They were asking $180.Zero for a mediocre pine stand engineered from regarding $40 in lumber. Talk about your profit margin.These are very in style stands, made by one of the prime firms and found in every fish store, so they must be adequate for the work. Still I figure a seventy five gallon setup can tip the scales at somewhere around 750 pounds therefore I wished something I had confidence in. Besides, if I'm going to lay out $180 for a cabinet, I expect a better worth for my cash.The answer was to make one myself. I looked around the net for some plans, simply to avoid wasting coming up with something from scratch, but the bulk of what I found was simply how to create the same factor I saw in the shop. Thus in the end I wound up building what you'll see here. I recognize it is not exactly a snake cage, but I figured I'd document the construction anyway. After all I know alot of herp keepers relish their fish quariums likewise.Also, this same stand will work for a normal ninety gallon tank likewise. The solely distinction between a seventy five and a ninety is the height. You can modify these plans to fit a 55 gallon easily too. The length of the fifty five is the identical, however it is 6" narrower.I even have not designed a hood to travel with this stand. At now I actually have no plan when or if I can ever get one built. If I do it will be added to the site. So if you don't see a link to it on this page, there is no want to email me asking regarding it.

The tools I used for this stand are as follows:

• Circular saw
• Compound miter saw
• Jigsaw
• Router

You'll also need a tri-square, a wood chisel, and other miscellaneous hand tools.Materials List

• (1) 10' 4x4
• (2) 10' 2x4
• (2) 8' 1x4
• (6) 8' 1x3
• (3) 6' 1x2
• (1) 4x8 sheet of 1/4" oak plywood
• (1) 8' stick of corner molding
• (1) 49"x 19" 1/2" plywood
• 2 1/2" wood screws
• 1" wood screws
• 3d finishing nails
• 4 hinges and 2 door pulls
• Your choice of stain with matching putty and semigloss polyurethane

I hope this materials list is accurate. Some of the smaller pieces I had in scrap laying around, so I bought different amounts.
With the oak plywood, you will not use a full sheet by any means, and Lowe's does sell it in half and quarter sheets which can save you some money unless you have a need for the leftover.

Construction of the stand

We begin by cutting and notching the 4x4s. You will notice the 4x4 I used is pressure treated. This is not required, but my local lumber yard only carries 4x4s as treated.
Cut the 4x4 into (4) 30" long pieces. These will be the load bearing corner posts.
You'll cut notches in the ends of each leg to accept the 2x4 top and bottom frame. It takes a little work to cut out the notches, but it's an important part. The notched legs allow the wood to support the weight of the aquarium rather than screws, which would be the case if you just fastened the frames to the legs.
A 2x4 measures 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" and this is the size notches that will be cut on two sides of each end. Set your blade on your circular saw to 1 1/2" depth for these cuts so you will not cut too deep and weaken the remaining wood.
I tried to take adequate pictures to show the method of cutting out the notches. The circular saw alone will not complete the cuts, you will have to finish them with a hand saw. You will also likely have to do a little additional trimming with a wood chisel to make the 2x4 frames fit flush into them. It's handy to use a piece of scrap 2x4 as a guide for this step.
When cutting the notches on the opposite end, make sure you cut them on the same side.

 

Next you'll make the top and bottom frames.
Cut the 2x4s into (4) 49" pieces and (4) 16" pieces. The overall frame size will be 49"x 19". This will allow 1/2" of wiggle room all the way around beyond the size of the aquarium.
Screw the frames together using 2 1/2" wood screws. Make sure they are square.
Below is a picture of one of the frames.

Now you'll attach the frames to the legs you worked so hard on. This frame will bear the majority of the weight, but we still need a few braces.

Cut (2) 16" 2x4 and (2) 23" 2x4. Space the 16" braces evenly in the bottom frame. This will distribute the weight of the aquarium over more of the floor space.

The other two pieces will be the center braces for the front and back. Measure the frame and make a mark at dead center on the front and back pieces. You will center the braces on these marks.The front brace will also act as a stop and gap fill for the doors.

I used metal "T" brackets to strengthen the center braces and then angled wood screws into the frame rails to secure them.

Next, you'll install the floor of the cabinet. You'll see that I used OSB board for the floor. I only did this because I had some scrap pieces around and didn't want to have to buy a sheet of plywood just to get this small piece. If you're buying the wood, go with plywood, it will hold up much better should you get it wet.
You'll need to cut notches out in the floor to accomodate the braces. Once you have it trimmed properly, secure it to the bottom frame rails with wood screws.

The frame is now finished. Everything you've built so far is designed to support the weight of the aquarium, and it will do a fine job. It's still not much to look at however, so we'll move on to the finish work by adding the trim and building the doors.

First, we'll use the 1x4 for the top and bottom trim. These pieces will cover the 2x4 frames 

I cut the ends of the trim molding on a 45° angle for a better finished look. If you do not have a miter saw, you can use a butt joint here, just cut the front pieces long enough to overlap the ends.

Once the pieces are cut, attach them to the frames with finishing nails. the finishing nails will be countersunk and puttied over for a smooth look. Use just enough nails to secure the pieces. The molding is just for looks and doesn't not support any weight. The fewer nails you use, the fewer you'll have to putty later.

 

After you have attached the 1x4 trim, you'll cut the 1/4" oak plywood for the panneling. Cut a piece for each end and nail it on with finishing nails. For the front, you'll cut 3 narrow pieces to cover the corner posts and the center brace. A back is not necessary, and is often left off to allow for the routing of hoses acssociated with the filter. If you need a back on the cabinet, attach it now.
Next you'll cover the corner joints with the corner molding. Cut one piece for each corner and attach it with finishing nails. It's a good idea to predrill the holes in the corner molding with a very small bit to prevent splitting the wood.
Below is a picture of the oak plywood panel and the corner molding installed on one end.

Next, we'll make the doors. My doors were 22 3/4" high. This measurement should work for you, but measure the space just to be sure, and leave a slight gap to make sure the door doesn't drag.

You'll need (8) 22 3/4" 1x3 for each door, a total of (16). In the pictures further down the page, you can see that I have used a router to round the edges of the 1x3 pieces. This provides a much better look to the finished doors. I suggest you go ahead and round the corners of the 8' boards before you cut them.

To round the edges, I used a round over bit set to a shallow depth. Use a scrap piece of wood to check the setting before cutting on the door pieces.

Make sure you cut the pieces straight or the doors will look funny. The miter saw comes in handy for this.

After you cut out the 1x3 slats, lay them side by side on a flat surface, making sure the ends are all even.

Cut (4) 1x2s 18" long and attach them to the door pieces, using a screw in each piece. Now cut a cross brace to lay diagonally between them to keep the pieces from shifting. If you have the tools and the inclination, you can join the pieces together with a biscit cutter. I don't have one of these, so I used the cross braces instead.

Hanging the doors is the most difficult part. It can be hard to get them level and closing evenly if you're not familiar with making doors.

For hinges, I used self closing flush mount hinges in antique brass. I recessed the hinges into the corner posts 1/4" so that the edge of the door would completely cover the door opening.
Center the hinges four inches from the top and bottom frame rails. That's four inches to the center of the hinge. Trace around the hinge with a felt tip marker so you can see the mark well.
You can use a wood chisel to cut the hinge recess, but it's much easier and more precise to use a router. I used a rabbiting bit set to 1/4" depth to make the recesses. Once the notches are cut, attach the hinges.

Now you just need to hang the doors, making sure they are level, close properly, and do not rub either the top or bottom trim pieces. Take your time on this step, and make sure the doors are placed where you want them before attaching them to the hinges.
You may also want to cut a 1x2 to fit under the top frame on each side between the center brace and the corner post. This will fill any gap between the door and the top frame.

With the doors on, your aquarium stand is finished. Stain it the color of your choice, and attach the door pulls and you have a nice furniture quality stand that will support 10 times the weight of a store bought one for less than half the cost.
Here is a picture of the finished stand in use. The aquarium is not finished, it is in the process of completeing the initial cycling of the water. I may build a matching canopy for this tank. If I do decide to do that, I will add that to this page.
The retail price for a 48" aquarium strip light is around $82 here, and I will not pay that much money for a plastic flourescent strip light. If I can locate one reasonably priced, I may just go with it, if not I will design a canopy and use my own light fixture in it.
The only addition not pictured here is a strip outlet. I attached a 6 plug strip outlet to the center rear brace. All the associated aquarium equipment will plug in there and only one cord will go to the wall. When using a strip outlet in this fashion, you must mount it as high as possible on the leg to allow for a drip loop on all the cords running to it. You don't want water traveling down the cord and into the outlet.