Friday, December 9, 2011

Rolling Bar Cart with Removable Tray


Highly galvanized by Pottery Barn's Chesapeake Bar Cart, sold out for a whopping $350 a cart, this bar cart, AKA beverage cart, party cart, or may be ornamental plant cart, is made entirely of 1x3 boards (well, except for the wood wheels) and price me underneath $20 to make in lumber.  


Featuring a high tray that is fully removable, and bottom shelf with slatted style for straightforward water drainage, curved handles for straightforward moving, and two massive picket front wheels, moving your party outdoors - or indoors come unplanned weather changes, is as simple as it's trendy.




The Dimension

Shopping List: 
9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
4 - 1/2" diameter bolts, 2 1/2" long with bolts
6 - 1/2" washers to fit bolts
2 - handles
2 - 6" diameter wood rounds
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
jigsaw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit

Cut List: 
2 - 1x3 @ 41 1/2" (Side Aprons)
4 - 1x3 @ 32" (Legs)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" (End Aprons)
2 - 1x3 @ 32" (Optional Side Supports)
Trays
4 - 1x3 @ 33 1/4" (Sides)
10 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2" (Bottom Slats)
10 - 1x3 @ 14 1/4" (Top Slats)
2 - 1x3 @ 16" (Bottom Ends)
2 - 1x3 @ 15 3/4" (Top Ends)

Please browse through the complete set up and every one comments before beginning this project. It is additionally advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to create safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, freed from imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for sq. after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained comes, as dried glue can not take stain. Be safe, celebrate, and ask for help if you wish it. Good luck!
Build the edges. Start by drawing a handle pattern on the aspect aprons. The handle at most can be 6" long, as the handle overhangs the rear leg vi". Clamp each side aprons along and sand till the two match perfectly.
You will conjointly taper the rear leg with a jigsaw as shown above (I did not, but would be cute).
Then attach the legs to the side apron, using one one/4" pocket hole screws and drilling holes with the Kreg Jig, set for three/four" stock.  Again, the handle overhangs the back leg by half-dozen".  Use glue and adjust for the square.  

You may would like to build two sides.  Take care to stay the pocket holes to the inside to conceal


Once your two sides are complete, attach the end aprons as shown in the diagram. Use glue, adjust for square.


After I designed my bar cart, I thought that a little further support and additionally, a rail for possibly using smaller trays (or perhaps a drop in ice bucket) would be sensible. So this step extremely is optional, however recommended. Add the facet aprons supports as shown higher than.


Now the trays. You'll build the trays with pocket holes, however it's really overkill. I used a pair of" end nails and wood glue, two nails per slat, with slats spaced three/four" apart.
The top tray desires to be 1/4" narrower than the underside so you'll be able to simply remove it while not scratching the finish. This is noted on top of and shown in the cut list.



Finish the ends of the two trays as shown above.


Now add the trays to the frame. The prime is as straightforward as just resting in place. For the underside, measure up half-dozen" and screw in place. I used one 1/4" screws and glue from the insides, 2 per leg, and it's plenty sturdy to carry my preschooler.


Drill holes in the center of your wood rounds with a 1/a pair of" drill bit. Mark the opening placement on the leg, and drill holes in the legs. Test the wheels with bolts, and when satisified, take away the wheels and trim legs (see next step).
When you set your wheels on permanently, you will wish to use 3 washers - one on the bolts side, one on the nut facet, and one between the wheel and also the leg to guard your finish. Bolt facet out, nuts on the within.



And a diagram for how the finished leg should look.


Preparation Instructions: 

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is totally dry, sand the project within the direction of the wood grain with one hundred twenty grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Take away all sanding residue on work surfaces in addition. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always suggested to use a test coat on a hidden space or scrap piece to make sure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



That's all!!. Hope everyone can have their own cart now!!!
For more information of other woodworking projects and plans visit this site Woodworking4home.com 


Thursday, December 8, 2011

Farmhouse Bedside Table

A bedside table to match our Farmhouse Beds. Features one large bottom shelf and one large drawer.

Shopping List: 
1 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1/4″ plywood scrap, at least 24″ x 8″ (minimum, ideally 26″ x 8 1/2″)
2 1/2″ Screws or Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Finish nails or Screws
Wood Glue, wood filler and finishing supplies
2 Knobs
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Cut List: 
2 – 1×12 @ 8 3/4″ (Sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim – needs to be width of your 1x12s)
4 – 2×2 @ 26 1/4″ (Legs)
2 – 2×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Stretchers, same width as your 1x12s)
6 – 2×2 @ 23″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood or paneling or other sheet goods @ 26″ x 8 1/2″ (back, optional)
3 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Top Supports)
3 – 1×6 @ 28″ (Top)
2 – 1×6 @ 22 3/4″ (Front and Back of Drawer)
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/2″ (Width of 1×12 – Sides of Drawers)
1 – 1×12 @ 21 1/4″ (Bottom of drawer)
1 – 1×12 @ 26″ (Bottom Shelf)
2 – 1×2 @ 23″ (Bottom Shelf Trim)

Sides
Build the sides by screwing or nailing from the insides into the back sides of the 1×2 trim, as shown above. Remember that the 1x2s are on the outside, so hide your fasteners on the back side. Use glue. Make sure trim is flush on top and ends with the 1×12. You will need to build two of these.

Legs
Next add the legs to the project as shown above. Predrill holes and use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Finish with the bottom stretcher. You will need to do this on both sides.

Front/Back Trim
Join the two side pieces with the front and back trim as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Back
This could even be a stiff cardboard or hardboard if that’s what you have on hand. Try asking at your hardware store for a scrap piece of plywood or a damaged sheet to save extra money. Tack on with either 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws and glue.

Top Supports
Attach the top supports as shown above with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Top
The top needs to overhang the base by 1″ on all sides. If you have a pocket hole system, build your top, then screw the base to the top through the supports. Otherwise, screw the supports to the top, starting with the middle top board, and minimizing gaps between the boards as you screw the outer boards to the supports.

Drawer
Build your drawer as shown above. Use screws and glue. The bottom is inset, with all sides screwed into the bottom. The front is merely false cuts made with a circular saw with the saw blade set at 1/8″.

Drawer Slides
What I would start with is screwing the drawer slides in place, flush with the bottom of the sides. Then fit the drawer in and unscrew the drawer slide and adjust until the gap around the top and sides is even and the drawer slides in and out nicely.


Front Trim
Attach the front trim to the legs as shown above, leaving an even gap on the underside of the drawer.

Bottom Shelf
You can lay the bottom shelf on the side stretchers, or you can screw to the legs as shown above.

Preparation Instructions: 
For a stained finish, be very careful to not let glue dry on any exposed seams or areas. Sand and stain, followed with wood filler that matches the stain, followed with a light sanding, a second coat of stain, and a clear top coat.
That's all!!. Hope everyone can have their own bedside table now!!!
For more information of other woodworking projects and plans visit this site Woodworking4home.com